1995 – Vivienne Tam, “Mao Collection” Dress | Fashion History Timeline

Once the collection was shown in New York in November 1994 (Fig. 10), the reactions were mixed. Zhang explained, “People who looked at the collection had different reactions to the images depending on where they were from and the bodies that wore them” (Tam 88). For example, some buyers did not know who Mao was and one asked if it was a portrait of Tam’s father. Others made the connection to Andy Warhol’s Mao portraits (Fig. 11). However, Zhang explained the difference of the two artist’s motives:

“Yes, Warhol just took the image of Mao as another mass icon, like Marilyn Monroe. But for Chinese artists, Mao is a political figure. I’ve been asked, ‘if Mao was a dictator like Hitler or Stalin, how can it be okay to use his image as pop art? Isn’t it tasteless to make fun of the suffering they caused?’ Good question. Mao is still controversial. Today, even if his deeds are criticized, the government still uses his ideologies, image, and flag. I believe that any use of Mao’s image which makes him less godlike is a form of criticism and it’s necessary.” (Tam 94)

When the collection was available for purchase in stores, the controversy did not stop. Shops in Taiwan would not carry the collection and some American stores decided not to display the clothes. At Tam’s Hong Kong store, the sales associates experienced angry protestors who threw stones at the t-shirts featured in the window (Veridiano). While the garments received a lot of press and attention, not all was negative. Japan was very open to the idea of the collection. Vivienne Tam, herself, was also featured in one of her Mao dresses in Vogue in June 1998 (Fig. 12). However, a few months after the article came out, Vogue published a letter from one of their readers which read:

“I am shocked that the images of Mao Tse-tung can turn into a fashion statement. Mao directly and indirectly caused a lot of people to suffer beyond Vogue’s and my imagination. People lost their basic freedom and had to flee their country. My family was forced to burn all family pictures during the Cultural Revolution. I won’t be surprised to see the images of Hitler and Pol Pot making the latest trends! Seeing Mao preserved in fashion is an insult to all people who lost their basic human rights to him.”

It is important to note that while Tam’s collection did receive a lot of press, many did not report on Zhang Hongtu’s contribution or the message the two tried to convey.